Gergeti Trinity Church in Kazbegi: How to Get There by Car

Tsminda Sameba is a medieval stone church at 2,170 metres, right below the summit of Mount Kazbek. It is probably the most recognisable view in Georgia, and getting there is quite realistic: from Tbilisi to the parking area by the church it's about 150 km and 3–3.5 hours behind the wheel. Below is everything you'll need for a trip without surprises.

A little history, short and to the point

The Holy Trinity Church of Gergeti was built in the 14th century. The exact date and the architect's name have not survived, which is fairly normal for medieval mountain buildings in Georgia. The church itself, though, still stands: a cross-domed building of local stone with a separate bell tower from the same period. It is the only domed church in the whole of Khevi province.

The site wasn't chosen by chance. In the 18th century, when the Persians threatened Tbilisi, Georgia's most important relics were brought here from Mtskheta: high in the mountains they were safer. In Soviet times the church was closed, and services only resumed in the 1990s. Today it is an active church with monks living here permanently. It draws pilgrims and tourists, as well as climbers acclimatising before an ascent of Kazbek.

In Georgian it is გერგეტის წმინდა სამება (Gergetis Tsminda Sameba). In conversation people usually just say "Gergeti" or "Tsminda Sameba". The town below is officially called Stepantsminda, though until 2007 it was called Kazbegi. Both names are still in use, and locals understand either.

The route from Tbilisi: the Georgian Military Highway

There is one road, the Georgian Military Highway, route E117. From Tbilisi you head north through Mtskheta, then along the Aragvi valley through Ananuri, Pasanauri and Gudauri, and then descend to Stepantsminda.

• Distance: about 150 km
• Driving time: 3–3.5 hours without stops, realistically 4–5 hours with stops for the views
• Road: paved all the way, switchbacks after Gudauri, an elevation change of about 1,500 metres

The road is a route in its own right, and I wouldn't rush straight through it: the stops along the way are worth as much as the church at the top. This is where it becomes clear why a rental car makes sense: you stop whenever you like, you don't depend on the minibus timetable, and you drive back without hurrying. You can book a car with free delivery in Tbilisi at mydrive.club.

Up to the church: asphalt, switchbacks, free parking

From Stepantsminda the church is easy to see from the main square. It stands on the mountain directly above the town, roughly 500 metres higher.

There are two ways to get up.

By car. Since 2018 a paved switchback road has led to the church. From spring to autumn any ordinary car can manage it; you don't need a 4x4. At the top there is free parking right by the church walls. The drive up takes about 15–20 minutes.

On foot. The trail takes 60–90 minutes one way. It is steep and rocky in places, so good shoes are a must. In return, the walk opens up views you won't catch from the car: the Terek gorge, Gergeti village below, the snowy caps of the neighbouring ridges. If you have the legs for it, I'd walk at least one of the two ways, up or down.

Winter: beautiful, with a few catches

A winter trip to Kazbegi is a different story. Few people, snow, quiet. But there are two things worth knowing in advance.

The Georgian Military Highway. It stays open in winter, but with interruptions. The key stretch is Gudauri–Kobi over the Jvari Pass (2,379 m). Avalanche risk comes up here regularly and the road gets closed, usually for a few hours or a day or two, sometimes longer. Check the current road status before you set off: the situation changes quickly.

The road to the church. It may not be cleared after a snowfall. If the snow is packed, it's better not to risk it in an ordinary car: the switchbacks are steep and there are no guardrails. The alternative is to hire a local driver with a 4x4 right in Stepantsminda. The price is usually 50–80 GEL per car for the round trip; agree on it before you set off.

If you're going in winter in a rental car, take a crossover or SUV: ground clearance and all-wheel drive are not superfluous here.

On site: what to see and how to behave

The church is active, so the dress code is stricter than in most Georgian Orthodox churches:

• Men: long trousers required, hats off
• Women: head, shoulders and knees covered; a skirt or dress

Wraps and headscarves are usually available at the entrance. Admission is free. Taking photos inside is not the custom; it's best to ask the church staff.

Outside, in clear weather, Mount Kazbek (5,047 m) stands directly opposite: a snowy pyramid against the sky. But the mountain is temperamental and hides in cloud about half the time. I wouldn't count on this view from a single visit: to be sure of catching a clear summit, it's better to stay overnight in Stepantsminda, as the chances are much higher in the morning.

The small hill next to the church is one of the best spots for photos. Some travellers pitch tents here and stay the night. In summer that works, but even in August there can be frost at night at 2,170 metres.

Practicalities: when to go and what to bring

Best time: May–June and September–October. July and August are crowded, especially at weekends. Autumn brings clean air, good visibility and fewer tourists. Winter suits those who are ready for unpredictability.

What to bring:

• A jacket and a windbreaker: it's always colder and windier at the top than in the town
• Comfortable shoes with decent soles if you're walking
• A headscarf (for women)
• Cash: there are ATMs in Stepantsminda, but none at the church

Where to eat: Stepantsminda has several cafes and restaurants. On the way, in Pasanauri, the food is traditionally tastier and cheaper, and they make khinkali properly there.

The short version

Gergeti Church is an active 14th-century church on a mountain with a view of one of the highest volcanoes in the Caucasus. In summer any car will make it: the road is paved and parking is free. In winter you need to keep an eye on the pass and be ready for the road up to the church to be closed. With a night in Stepantsminda, your chances of seeing Kazbek against a clear sky are much higher than on a one-day dash.